The best export settings for Instagram 2019

Lightroom tips for uploading the best quality Instagram images
Best export settings for Instagram 2018 - Pat Kay Away

Article updated for 2019!

Gah! This image looks like it was shot from a potato. Pixelated, soft, full of artefacts. Gross.

…or maybe I was being too hard on myself once upon a time.

Either way, if Instagram is killing your images after you’ve spent time perfecting them in Lightroom, this article is for you. I’ll teach you the best export settings for Instagram in 2018, and if you stick around, there’s some freebies at the end.

So, Instagram has some recommended guidelines for images. Basically:

Some other things we do know, though, is that Instagram also uses what’s called an image compression algorithm on all images that get uploaded to their servers.

The compression myth

The reason why they do this is the same reason why many websites squash images too (including this website you’re reading this on!) – performance. Instagram is optimising for images to load as fast as they can for the best experience, so they try and reduce the file sizes of your images so there’s less to download and thus your feeds load quicker.

Warning: this next bit gets a tad technical.

Some image compression techniques are better than others, and to be quite honest, Instagram’s is actually quite good – a decent quality for the file size. However some people find problems with it, and that’s where this article comes in.

But first, let’s dispel a myth that there’s a ‘quality’ or file size you can get to in order to avoid the compression algorithm.

I’ve seen some people say that if you set your export settings to 75% quality, or if your images are under 500kb, you’ll somehow magically bypass the compression algorithm.

That’s a total lie.

In fact, by doing so, you’re actually making your end image worse than what it could be. Here’s why.

The upload process looks a little like this:

Every image is compressed. It needs to be that way because it doesn’t make logical sense to assume that the user’s compression is better than their own. There’s too many variables, and therefore the most reasonable approach is to standardise all images, even if it ends up being parity or just a check.

You can test this yourself. Upload an image at 50% quality at less than 500kb and extract that image from the desktop version of Instagram (right click > inspect element on your image > expand the sibling DIV > right click to open your image in a new tab > save) and compare it to your original image. The actual quality of the algorithm is quite good – compressing file size considerably at little loss of quality – so it’ll be hard to tell, but there’s definitely compression there.

Therefore, if you’re uploading at 75% quality, then you’re compressing 75% quality. Alternatively, if you upload at 100%, you also compress at 100%.

The best export settings for Instagram in Lightroom

With that said, there are 6 dimensions to consider when exporting for Instagram.

Sharpening

This is actually the biggest deal when it comes to what looks like a high quality image.

Sharpness is usually perceived as detail, and a more detailed image looks better generally.

As with all formats, whether it’s print or digital, you need to sharpen for your medium. Typically, you’ll have different sharpening levels if you’re getting your image printed vs being viewed on a mobile device. This is because depending on what medium you’re viewing the image on, there are variables in the quality of your viewing experience.

How many pixels per inch does your phone pack into its display? How many dots per inch is your printer printing your image at? What material and size? What about the size of your display? How far are they standing away from the image? What size is it seen at? All of these variables and many more determine how good your image looks when someone is viewing it.

That’s a long-winded way to say that you need to sharpen for a phone display. And although you can do that by setting your “Output sharpening” to “Screen”, we can do better.

Check out this article on how to sharpen images in Lightroom. The juicy part is at number 5. TLDR; use masking.

Once you’ve sharpened your shot, send it to your phone. If it looks like it’s almost too sharp, you’re golden. The compression will dull it down when you upload it.

Crop

While Instagram supports every ratio between 1.91:1 and 4:5, there’s only really one crop size you should be uploading at – 4:5.

4:5 turns out to be the largest pixel size you can upload. It not only gives you the most digital real estate to work with in your photo, but it also takes up the most size in the feed.

Due to the nature of their aspect ratio in the portrait orientation of a phone, when your audience scrolls through their feeds, unfortunately the landscape images – the little images – get skipped over pretty fast.

Square images are better, but 4:5 images are the best.

(For the record, I prefer to shoot and showcase my work in landscape mostly, but eh, you gotta change with the times!)

Pat Kay Away - Instagram Aspect ratios

Quality

If you missed it, read the previous section on “The compression myth”, but this section is otherwise pretty straight forward.

Best quality. No limit. JPEG or PNG. Size be dammed. That’s what the image compression algorithm is for. It’s going to be compressed regardless of what you do.

Colour space

There are a few choices for what colour space you can export to. Many printers prefer their files in AdobeRGB (1998) because the colour space is wide and varied enough for the subtle changes in tonality, while matching with what most physical printers print at.

For digital, we’re looking for sRGB. The majority of digital is sRGB – that’s what you should be editing with and that’s what you should be exporting at for the most consistent experience.

Image sizing

Instagram always displays images at 1080px. In their guidelines, they say that they skip the resizing process if your uploaded image is equal to or less than that resolution.

There’s two approaches here:

1) Export at 1080px wide. That means:

2) Export at exactly double 1080px wide.

One of the reasons why I do this is because if Instagram wants to increase the displayed image sizes in the future, they have a 2x version of my image that they can re-splice a source set from.

But the main reason is that exactly 2x or 4x resized downwards will always be kind and safe to whatever resizing work is going on in the background. In some cases, it’s even sharper (for example: cameras downsampling from 6k to 4k for a superior, sharper image like in the Sony A6500).

When it comes to resolution, displays typically show a maximum resolution of 72 pixels per inch (PPI), while for print, selecting a resolution of 300 dots per inch (DPI) in generally preferred.

For our use case, 72 PPI will do. Any more will not have any visible benefit on quality.

Meta

Instagram strips all your metadata. Up to you if you want to export any out, but by the time you upload it, it’s gone and it never comes back.

Recommendations for exporting in Lightroom

Okay, time to put it all together!

Bonus – free Instagram export presets

Here’s a freebie (only downloadable on desktop).

It’s the exact settings I use for exporting on Instagram every single day.

Just download, open up the export menu in Lightroom > right click on a folder > import > select the presets!

Shared with love, just for you. I hope it makes your life easier.

If you enjoyed this article, please consider supporting me by checking out my presets or workshops.

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20 comments Leave a comment

  • Zev says:

    Great article, confirmed a lot of what I thought already and I learned too! The DPI issue is something that isn’t talked about enough. It looks like no matter what DPI you post at, Instagram will convert it to 72 DPI. I recently started uploading all my pictures at 72 DPI because of this, but I’m not entirely sure that it matters what you do since they will compress it down to 72 DPI anyways. Also, for PNG vs JPG, I’ve noticed that if I post a graphic that has a lot of solid colors in it, the JPG will look splotchy and pixelated, BUT if you post it as a PNG, the pixelation and splotchy colors don’t show up. Not sure what it is about a png that changes this but thought I’d put it out there.

    • Pat Kay says:

      Thanks Zev! RE: the DPI issue, 72DPI is pretty much the max of what you’ll see on the internet, with 300DPI being what you would use for print. Also, if you’re experiencing colours that don’t show up, consider editing and exporting in sRGB for max consistency.

  • K Mar says:

    Thank you for sharing your knowledge! “Arigato”

  • Rainey says:

    What if we’re exporting from Photoshop instead of Lightroom, what parameters would you suggest?

  • Kamal says:

    Hey there, does this apply when i want to make those same pictures to be my iphone wallpaper. Because mostly the picture will not be share when applied to wallpaper. And also if i wanna share the picture as wallpaper in ig story, does
    It still applicable. Because what i realize is that when i put it in igstory, i will need to resize it back. Thank you

  • Tawny Ly says:

    Wow! Learned so much from this. Direct and to the point. Love it.

  • Maki says:

    First of all thanks for the tips and keep going your wonderful work.
    My question is if i get it right so long edge for a vertical and short edge for horizontal photo?

    • Pat Kay says:

      It’s up to you. I use short edge for both because the width is always the same for square, 4×5 or landscape so I never have to change my settings.

  • Anthony Isensee says:

    FINALLY! Someone who actually breaks it all down exactly like it is. Thanks so much, Pat!

  • Mandy says:

    You should really use Display P3 for the color space now that IG supports it.

    • Pat Kay says:

      I disagree – ultimately there are many devices that don’t use the Display P3 colour space. Although Instagram might automatically serve up sRGB versions for them, you’re ultimately leaving that decision and the resulting conversion to them, rather than doing it yourself and ensuring it looks good upfront. The difference between P3 and sRGB isn’t that much, anyway – and even only in the greens/lime colours.

  • Steve says:

    I don’t get one thing. If I’m resizing down to 1080×1080 in Photoshop what difference does the PPI setting make?

  • ghetto_smurf says:

    Really informative. Thank you Pat

  • Linus Ziegler @_zglr says:

    Pretty well summarized Pat! Great job👍 I have a bonus tip for some extra sharpness: Put your final unresized shot into photoshop and use the Resize-tool set to “bicubic sharpen”to scale it 1080px. Just seems to do a better job putting the pixels together and creates a much sharper end result.

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